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It has yet to install couchette carriages and, after several failed attempts to fall asleep in their seats, most people head for the on-train bar and drink the night away.
To avoid the hard-seat alternative, you have to do a quick deal with a guard before getting on the train - a little like booking a last-minute couchette in Europe.
I opted for the three-bed couchette , as opposed to the two, as I'm always slightly paranoid of being alone with someone on the European trains.
At Belgrade I was left looking after the luggage while my husband went off to organize a couchette or wagon-lit for the rest of the journey.
The company takes off on the sleeper - cue for much squabbling among the bunk-hopping young lovers as to who sleeps with whom in which couchette - which makes a timely departure in a convincing billow of smoke.
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